DIY Salvaged Timber Bench

Is there anything better than finding free hardwood? Ok maybe if you’re not a DIYer but in my case it’s like Christmas! My dad found an old timber table on a junk pile and as you’ll see the weathered boards weren’t overly inspiring but as soon as we started sanding our eyes lit up. We decided to make a “skinny” bench for our bedroom but this would work great as a hall bench or could even be adapted to make a stool.

After watching a few furniture building tutorials I noticed most people used pocket holes so we were excited to give it a go. Honestly, once you get your head around the jig it is pretty simple to use. The issue we had was that the max width for the pocket hole jig is 38mm and these boards are 50mm thick. What we did was use the circular saw to first rip one of the boards into 4 lengths which measured 50mmx50mm and then cut each down again so they measured 50mmx38mm. (keep this in mind if you’re planning to use timber you already have or if you are buying it new).

This is a great beginner woodworking project to build your confidence with using power tools and pocket holes. The bench is very sturdy and I think it looks amazing! We haven’t applied any stain as yet as we are planning a bigger bedroom makeover so want to see what colour will best suit… watch this space!

WHAT YOU WILL NEED

·       Timber of choice

·       Mitre Saw

·       Kreg Pocket Hole Jig

·       8 x 2 ½ inch Kreg Pocket Hole Screws

·       4 x 1 ½ inch Kreg Pocket hole Screws (or regular wood screws)

·       Drill & Driver

·       Measuring Tape

·       Speed Square

·       Sandpaper

·       Circular Saw (if your boards need to be cut down in width)

For reference my bench measures 1200mm long x 500mm high x 200mm wide

STEP 1

Using the mitre saw cut 4 legs at a 10° matching angle on both ends. My legs are 450mm long.

STEP 2

Use the pocket hole jig and bit to drill two holes into each leg. Make sure you drill the holes into what will be the back side, or inward facing side of the board.

STEP 3

Decide where you want the legs to attach to the top. We came in the width of 2 boards from the end (100mm) and the width of 1 board from the edge (50mm).

STEP 4

Attach the legs to the underside of the bench top using 2 ½ inch pocket hole screws.

STEP 5

To create the leg supports we originally planned to use some offcuts of the 50mmx38mm and use pocket holes. However there were two issues we came across. Firstly, we couldn’t fit a pocket hole on both ends given the short length. We then thought to use regular pilot holes and wood screws but as the holes were going with, rather than against the grain, the wood kept splitting. A quick phone call to Dad and he suggested to cut new supports so that we’d be drilling against the wood grain. This meant we had to cut new pieces from the end of another 50mm thick board.

Decide where you would like your leg supports to sit, and holding the support up to the legs mark the 10° angle cuts on both ends.

STEP 6

Drill pilot holes through each end of the support at roughly a 45° angle then attach to the legs using 1 ½ inch pocket hole screws (or suitable wood screws).

STEP 7

Give everything a good sand. I started with a rough 80 grit and finished with 180 grit to make it nice and smooth.

We did think about adding an additional piece across the bottom for a farmhouse look however, as you will see in the picture of the supports there is a crack right where we would need to connect it so we decided not to risk it.

I’m really proud of our first attempt at building furniture and for overcoming some of the obstacles that inevitably arise when you’re new to woodworking. I hope this inspires you to give it a go. You can make this bench in any size you like and even adapt to make a stool or pot stand!